Lessons from Living, Dying and Living Again
Chapter 8 (preceding chapters are posted below)
8. Midtown Pleasance
Great taxicab rides are not usually something one associates with a visit to Manhattan, but I’ll always remember the one I took on the first day of September, 2023. Ryan, the hospital’s social worker, had come through on his longstanding promise to secure me a room at Hope Lodge, the American Cancer Society’s temporary home for cancer patients on West 32nd Street, a half-block east of Penn Station and Madison Square Garden. September 1 was a sunny and summery Friday, and my first time out of doors since June 22. My first direct sunlight since then, too. As our cab (I was with my caretaking sister Parthy) made its way down Fifth Avenue, with resplendent Central Park to our right, I opened the window and stuck my head out like a golden retriever. The warm breeze felt good on my face and bald head. The normal markers of the big city – strollers, joggers, bikers, double parkers, honking taxi horns, food carts, delivery trucks, jaywalkers, dog walkers, pigeons – were all wonderful to me, and almost more than I could bear to take in. Even stupendously crowded, superanimated Times Square was a source of delight.
Hope Lodge is but one of the American Cancer Society’s network of 30 such facilities nationwide. The first, in Charleston, S.C., was established in 1970. The guiding principle is simple: to provide accommodation, comfort and convenience at no cost to cancer patients (like me) who required frequent hospital visits but who lived too far away to commute. The Manhattan version is housed in a 12-story building occupied partly by regular tenants on the lower floors but also with 60 rooms for cancer patients on floors 7-12. We entered through an unassuming lobby and then up to the sixth floor, where the offices and public rooms are located. At first, they had us on the twelfth floor but with a single queen-sized bed, which wouldn’t do. They then placed us on the ninth floor with two single beds, a bathroom, a couple of chairs, a desk, dresser, closet and small-screen TV. The view from the windows was of 32nd Street, with its constant stream of vehicles and pedestrians and, across the street, an enormous hole in the ground where until recently the legendary Hotel Pennsylvania had stood. The hotel was to make way for a 61-floor office building, a plan that was soon delayed as market conditions for Manhattan office space deteriorated due to Covid. We were treated to the final stages of demolition, which sometimes began in the cool of pre-dawn and could be very loud. We often had to keep the windows closed. Quiet Sundays were delightful.
Each floor at Hope Lodge features its own kitchen and laundry room. In the kitchen there were designated sections in the two refrigerators and cabinets for each tenant’s food and drink, along with toaster ovens, microwaves, dishwashers, dining tables, plates, bowls and utensils. The kitchen was, in its way, yet another waiting room. It was where the denizens of Floor 9 bumped into each other, chatted, and every once in a while spilled out their hopes and fears while waiting for their English muffin to toast. It was a varied crew with varying types of cancer – a woman from upstate New York with two young children at home, a woman from San Francisco who once a week prepared a lavish dinner for everyone, couples (patient and caregiver) from Connecticut, New Jersey and Florida. Some, like me, had no hair or were bent and bowed down, or depressed, or delusional. You could see that some of them would never make it back home. The consideration, decency and good cheer – the effort – everyone showed to one another would break your heart. Of course, there were those on the floor who somehow avoided detection and clearly preferred not to mingle. Did they eat in their rooms (forbidden but tolerated)? Did they dine out? Were they never hungry? Anything was possible.
The Lodge’s sixth floor was another gathering place. The series of public spaces there included a couple of comfortable seating areas in front of large screens for TV shows or movies, a big communal kitchen used for special events (three New York Giants dropped by one day for a visit and words of encouragement, as did Martina Navratilova), a nice little library, an exercise room, and a 100-foot-long terrace overlooking 32nd Street and outfitted with comfortable seating and a profusion of plantings. Because of the tall nearby buildings, the sun never quite hit the terrace directly, but the late summer warmth and air felt good. The terrace, we soon found out, was also a home to the city’s most notorious new arrival, the Spotted Lantern Fly, described as “a plant hopper indigenous to parts of China and Vietnam.” Orders had gone out from New York agriculture officials that lantern flies were a threat to all vegetation near and far and were to be terminated with extreme prejudice on sight. So that’s what Parthy and I set out to do. It was my first attempt at freestyle exercise since leaving the hospital, and it felt good to be outdoors taking a whack or two at these surprisingly elusive pests. For her part, Parthy impressed me with the ferocity of her attack. Taken together, our tally was not large, but we felt we’d contributed to the common good.
Every couple of days I had to travel up to Mount Sinai for doctor appointments, blood draws and transfusions. There were rumors that the hospital had a shuttle that would take us back and forth, but that proved to be a heartless fallacy. I ended up depending on Lyft instead and was envious when I saw the Sloan-Kettering shuttle pull up for its handful of pampered passengers. The expense of the Lyft rides piled up – and I was shocked at how fast the rates went up when it rained – but they proved a reliable way to get where I wanted to go. The traffic through midtown was absurd in those pre-surcharge days, especially during the week or two when the UN Security Council was in session and the 10 blocks around the UN headquarters were swarming with cops and patrol cars. I will say that from my backseat perspective the early-morning doings along Madison Avenue – its galleries, specialty shops, diners, freshly hosed sidewalks, dog walking matrons – were always interesting. Up in the 80s and 90s, I especially enjoyed observing children of privilege walking to their nearby private schools, or being walked by a parent, usually a father. I gazed at these city kids with wonder. They were already well situated on the up escalator. They were not only of the big city, with attendant street smarts, but rising above it, their expensive little backpacks spilling over with future good fortune. I quietly wished them the best and hoped that one of them might someday emerge to save us all.
In any case, none of them was headed to Mount Sinai for reviving shots of blood and platelets. The time spent there quickly became routine. A blood draw, then a half-hour wait for the results. Then an assignment to a curtained cubby and bed on the fourth floor to await the infusions. The blood procedure was relatively brief, maybe a half-hour or so, but the platelets took longer. Both came to the hospital from a mysterious storage facility somewhere out in New Jersey, and sometimes there was a long wait for them to arrive. I tried to make myself the very picture of patience, mainly to make the nurses feel more empathy for me. In truth, of course, I was in no hurry. I had nowhere to go and nothing to do. The infusions would often be the highlight of my day.
The rules at Hope Lodge stated that people with certain types of cancer or who had gone through certain procedures, such as mine, required the 24/7 presence of a caregiver while living there. I felt this was a truly imposing thing to ask of family and friends, and I think Marcia did the actual asking, but many had offered to help out in any way, and so they did. They arrived in shifts over the course of the eight weeks, some for longer periods than others: sister Parthy from Charlottesville, then Marcia, then sister Susie from Ithaca, brother Michael from Culver City, Matt, old friend Mike Meserole from Waterbury, and finally Marcia again. All humbled me with their attention and care and their genuine interest in my recovery. None of them snored. They did the laundry, went food shopping, occasionally sought out a clothing item I needed (the weather was getting chilly), and had meals with me. We watched movies and games together, sat out on the terrace, and often they read or worked quietly while I napped. Later in my stay, they accompanied me on walks around the block, shielding me from screaming or sleeping homeless people as I learned how to maneuver on my cane.
My first outing onto Manhattan’s sidewalks and streets, very early in my stay, had been an adventure, a solo one. It came during a rare small gap in my caregivers’ presence; I was alone at Hope Lodge for several hours and clearly was not to be trusted. I’d discovered that my reading glasses were missing and that I must have left them in my cab or Lyft car. I didn’t have a backup pair. I knew there had to be a shopping mall of some sort inside Penn Station, a mere half-block away, and certainly a store that would have cheap readers for sale. I gazed out my sixth-floor window and considered what I’d have to do: make it down the elevator to the ground floor, get by the front-desk man, turn left out the door and head straight for 8th Avenue, cross at the light and enter the station. The major drawback was that I hadn’t walked anywhere near that distance during my hospital stay, nor had I maneuvered through crowds of pedestrians or lanes of surging traffic. Nor did I possess anything approaching my former alertness or balance. But I needed glasses.
My outing wasn’t terrible, but it wasn’t great. I tried a jaunty greeting, even a wave of the cane, with the front-desk man, who I don’t think even looked up. My walk down the 32nd Street sidewalk was probably not pretty. I felt out of place, like the first fish ever to try walking on land. But if you are cancer bald and somewhat emaciated and walking unsteadily on a stick, people, even in Manhattan, tend to give you a pretty wide berth. I made it to the broad avenue, crossed over and went into Penn Station. I noticed on a marquee that on that very night, September 7, The Eagles and Steely Dan would be appearing at the adjacent Madison Square Garden. Having seen Steely Dan 49 years earlier at Waterbury’s Palace Theater, I briefly wondered, ridiculously, if I might go. I wanted to see how one of my musical heroes, Donald Fagen, soul survivor and fellow Jean Shepherd-on-the-radio fan, was holding up. Certainly, he must be in better shape than I was. But there was no time to ponder. I was already losing steam. I found a Duane Reade drugstore, bought some eyeglasses and headed back out. On the way, I noticed a couple of figures on the sidewalk. They were bent over and holding awkward, arms-raised-behind-them poses while still managing to stand, reminding me of the Spirit of Ecstasy hood ornament on a Rolls Royce. Could they be street mimes, like the ones I remembered seeing in the courtyard of the Pompidou Center in Paris? I admired them very, very briefly but later found out that, no, they were fentanyl junkies experiencing the rigid throes of an overdose – just another dark sideshow in life’s endless carnival. I wobbled back to Hope Lodge and collapsed onto my bed. I secretly considered my excursion a victory, the first of its type I could claim in quite some time. And no one would ever have to know about it.
A great thing about Hope Lodge was that, along with my caregivers, friends could now come and comfortably see me – and a number of them did. Most brought delicious-looking baked goods, which I still couldn’t quite handle. All brought good vibes, lively conversation and, in some cases, news from home. Niece Kylie twice brought dinner from Amali, the wonderful Mediterranean restaurant she manages on East 60th Street. I was happy to see everyone and grateful for the effort they’d made, and once again I tried to read how they saw me. I had lost at least 30 or 40 pounds, my sunken cheeks gave me what a sister later called “a haunted look,” and I could only compare the very sparse growth on the top of my head to Popeye’s. But people didn’t seem to mind. They didn’t stare. Their job was to make me feel better, and they did. Meanwhile, the days went by. The U.S. Tennis Open and the Ryder Cup came and went, baseball moved into playoff mode, the college and NFL football seasons began, even pro hockey and basketball started up. I had begun to think of Hope Lodge as a place everyone “hoped” to leave both standing up and before too long.
But the truth was that my blood numbers were still not improving by much, certainly not enough to allow for my release. As the calendar turned to October, Dr. Keyzner came to the conclusion (one that she’d apparently been mulling for quite a while) that I should have a “boost” for my stem cells, meaning another infusion from Matt. The problem was that my engraftment process had been generally sluggish, and it was taking too long to produce new blood cells. An additional boost might lead to improved blood cell production and a faster recovery. It was a step I hadn’t realized Matt might have to take, but he did it without hesitation, and this time I got to visit him as he lay for hours on his hospital bed, sending his cells into a little collection shag bag.
The process for me was nothing like the first time. There was no killing me first, no chemo blasts, no nightmares, no morphine, no hallucinations – just a simple transfer of the cells from Matt to the container to me. I didn’t even have to stay overnight in the hospital. And as October progressed, I thought I might be feeling a little bit better every day. Everyone began to understand that, at this point, a sort of uneven recovery had arrived, and I’d be better off at home, or at least no great harm would come from my being there. My blood counts were by now moderately, rather than gravely, poor. My recollection is that my platelets were around 60 and trending slightly upward (again, normal would be 150-450). Hemoglobin was rather low but white blood was near normal. If it came to getting blood draws and occasional transfusions, I could do that at home, at Leever Cancer Center or St. Mary’s. If it came to napping for hours, I could do that at home. If it came to not eating, I could do that at home. If it came to losing my cellphone or balancing backward against a wall in order to put my pants on, I could certainly do that at home. I felt ready for the challenge, to see what was going to happen. With the boost, Mount Sinai had really done all it could do for me. Doctor Keyzner and I spoke, along with Marcia. The good doctor agreed. She thought that with a local oncologist watching over me and communicating with her, and a schedule for in-person follow-ups, it was finally time to get back to Connecticut. We set the date for October 31, 2023.